The Lovers : Victorian Era Double Heart Locket Brooch with Red Guilloche Enamel, Rose Cut Diamonds and Wild Pearls circa 1880

Twin hearts: the consummate symbol for two lovers, united. These twin hearts are outlined in diamonds, (representing eternity) and each centred with a lustrous wild pearl (for purity). They rest in a sea of vermillion red guilloche enamel in a marquise or eye-shaped field, bordered with white enamel and surrounded by a halo of whole pearls, which remind me of eyelashes. On the reverse of the brooch is a locket compartment. In the Victorian Era most everything decorative had a secret meaning, especially jewellery. While my description above may seem fanciful it is based in the coded language of gemstones used by the Victorians. Red enamel is rare in jewels from this period, but the twin heart motif and an abundance of wild pearls – the rarest of precious gems at the time – are all fitting for a betrothal gift for the nobility. Brooches were worn by both men and women, the locket at the reverse provides a way to personalise the jewel and hide a meaningful memento. The eye shape of the brooch may be a gentle call-back to the romantic “lovers eye” painted miniature jewels of the Georgian Regency period. Manufacture  Made of multiple hand made pieces, hand assembled. This brooch is made in an assortment of precious metals. The enamel panel is likely 22ct gold, the outside frame of the brooch tests as 14ct gold, with a 10ct gold pin and 18ct gold safety chain. The safety clasp is 9ct gold and hallmarked 9c. The hearts are modelled in sterling silver. All metals have been verified by XRF test. The gemstones have been verified by an independent gemologist as natural earth-mined rose cut diamonds and wild (not cultured) ocean pearls. The brooch measures 40mm long x 20mm wide and xmm deep. Weighs 12.93 grams. Fastens with a gold pin with a Victorian Era tube hinge and c-clasp. The locket has a convex glass cover and friction fits inside the brooch. Condition One pearl appears to be missing at the point of the eye – I suspect it interfered with the function of the hinge and was deliberately removed. In my opinion its absence makes the brooch appear more eye-like. The safety pin is a bit out of shape but still functional. Otherwise in excellent antique condition.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Aurelia | Secret Histories (@secret_histories)